When Sokyo's long-time head sushi chef Sanghyeop 'Sam' Choi told friends he was leaving The Star to open his own room above Bronte beach, the industry sat up. The result is Fishnets, the latest from restaurateur Alex Cameron of Table Manners — a Japanese-leaning bistro that trades the formality of an omakase counter for the kind of long, loud share dinner the eastern suburbs have been quietly waiting for.

The menu reads like a chef's release valve: a tuna katsu sandwich built for the table, hand rolls thick with chutoro, kingfish dressed in burnt-butter ponzu, and a finishing run of mapo gelato that has already become a talking point. Choi runs a tight sushi bar at the back; Cameron has taken care of the front, including a tightly edited sake and Champagne list designed to drink across three hours.

Fishnets opens nightly from Tuesday to Sunday, with bookings already running a fortnight deep. It joins a growing list of beachfront rooms — Lana, Promenade, Sirenuse — quietly turning the eastern beaches into Sydney's most competitive dining strip.