Sakura House sits one flight up off York Street and is, blessedly, exactly the room its sign promises: paper lanterns, dark wood, a sake list that runs to four pages and a snack menu — yakitori, agedashi tofu, a remarkable mentaiko spaghetti — that is designed to be ordered in waves.

The bar runs until 2am most nights, with last orders for the kitchen at midnight. The list of by-the-glass sake is the deepest in the CBD, with the team running monthly tastings hosted by importer Black Market Sake.

Time Out's reviewer awarded the venue four stars at opening, describing it as 'the closest Sydney has to a Golden Gai pour'.